Art

In Discussion with Lisa Grainger for Walpole

August 12, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

It’s always a surprise and a delight when a writer for the Times Magazine calls, so you can imagine our feelings when Lisa Grainger got in touch for a chat in preparation for her latest column for Walpole: The Value of Craftsmanship. The piece came out on their website today so follow the link to read all about it.

We feel very passionatly about the importance of craftsmanship and maintaing these precious skills so it is with much gratitude that we thanks to Walpole and Lisa for the opportunity to be featured.

Sneaker Unboxed – Studio to Street

July 16, 2021 by Intern

This exhibition showcased how the sneakers you choose can relate to a particular sport, music genre or subculture. Fast paced production leads to us and the brands themselves dismissing the history of where it all started. The motivation for the exhibition was the innovative attitude and products within the sneaker industry being developed today.

Stock X funded the Sneaker Unboxed exhibition, the brand is a live marketplace for people selling their sneakers online, along with other designer products. The data that they have collected throughout their five year history, has allowed us to see patterns and behaviours of consumers within the sneaker industry.

Sneaker market value has increased by double since 2012 from $40,000 to $80,000 and is expected to reach $100,000 by 2025. An astonishing 1,282 million shoes were sold worldwide in 2019.

Where it all began, Converse All Star sneakers being the oldest shoes at the exhibition, taking us back to 1920. Charles ‘Chuck’ Taylor brought out his first pair in 1917, marketed towards basketball coaches to influence their players. Converse All Stars were the Olympic shoe for 30 years, due to their effective sponge rubber insoles and moulded outer sole, which benefited athletes as the signature diamond tread avoided them slipping on smooth wooden floors. The Converse All Stars were extremely popular until the late 60’s, and then the sneaker industry began to grow.

Customising sneakers was something that was at the forefront of the exhibition. As the 1970’s began young people from diverse inner-city neighbourhoods started to wear sport sneakers as a fashion statement. However brands were unaware of this, therefore still promoting them as sports shoes. Brands saw the new craze and marketed their sneakers to younger people, towards the 90’s started collaborations with fashion brands.

Within the 1970’s, people were having economical issues, yet they still wanted ‘fresh creps’. Therefore they would buy the well promoted sports sneaker, and interchange accessories, such as different width or coloured laces. To match outfits or just to make a statement. People were thriving off the compliment they were getting about their sneakers.

Adicolour kits were available to buy in 1983, which were a set of coloured marker pens. Later in 2005, the kits were reissued with oil paints.

Another sneaker trend began in the 1980’s revolving around Adidas, Run-DMC were a big hip-hop group and they were the first non-sport stars to promote a sports brand. The iconic unlaced Adidas Superstars with the tongue pushed out took New York by storm. Originating from one of the band members being jailed, as the typical prison procedure his laces were removed from his shoes, however when being released he did not replenish the laces and the trend grew from there. Increasing Adidas’ sales, as they had plummeted in the 1970’s.

It was interesting to see which trainers fitted with each subculture and the journey they had taken.

In 1984 Jordan’s were established, a collaboration with Micheal Jordan and Nike. Nike created the shoe particularly for Micheal Jordan, this was the first collaboration of a brand and a singular sports individual, resulting in success and thirty five sneaker models being released to date.

Skateboarders did not really have much choice for shoes, therefore wore basketball shoes to support their ankles while skating. There was suddenly a change in the sneaker market as Van’s rebranded themselves with their famous logo today ‘Off The Wall’, in 1976, they took off in the skating subculture, for their sturdy structure and style. Nike Air Jordans were created as a result of Van’s success, and were very popular within the skateboarding culture.

Casual wearing of sneakers was adopted by football fans in the late 1970’s in Liverpool and Manchester, the subculture the ‘Casuals’ showed their rivalry by their sneaker, your choice showed which football team you supported.

At the beginning of the exhibition it explained that sneakers are constructed by different sections of the sneaker being created in different factories world wide, and then being shipped to one place to be constructed. Therefore adding to the industry’s carbon footprint. As the exhibition unfolded it showed new sustainable methods of making shoes that brands are now considering as well as producing for the market.

There were some great examples of how the sneaker industry is developing, for example Adidas have made their classic Stan Smith’s out of Mylo mushroom leather, looking and feeling like animal leather however totally harmless on the environment.

There was also Stella McCartney Loop Sneakers produced in 2018, which was a new concept of how sneakers are attached together. Instead of using toxic glue, adding to our carbon footprint, McCartney uses interlocking clips and stitch techniques instead. Another issue within sustainability was that each part of the shoe takes different times to degrade. With this shoe the parts can be removed from each other easily, therefore making it easier to recycle or be reused.

To conclude the exhibition was an interesting journey, it was a great way to see how shoes have evolved over the years and how they are going to keep adapting in the future when adapting with a sustainable attitude.

The Sneakers Unboxed Exhibition is on at the Design Museum: Now until the 24th October 2021, tickets are £14.00, some concessions available- see the website for full details and booking.

Words by Victoria Jones

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21

May 27, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

A few years ago, we had the opportunity to work the the bespoke devision of H&M on an unusual project which would push our embroidery materials further than we had gone beofre. With them we developed these starburst from a combination of goldwork bullion, swarovski crystals, sequins, beads and most excitingly: reflective threads.

When the flash is on, you can really see these catch the light- perfect for an onstage performance.

Each one is built up out of the surface of the fabric for even more impact.

Up close, you get more of a sense of the detail that went into these piece with the pearle purl edging, raised cutwork purls, bugle beads and sequins coming into view. Playing with the textures to add interest however the light fall on them.

Now we have got to see the project brought to its conclusion when they were feautured as part of the outfit for Sweden’s entry to Eurovision Rotterdam 2021: Tusse. Worn as detatched black sleeves to his red velvet suit, the crystal and reflective thread made quite an impression during the performance. image courtesy of @tusseofc

Follow the link to see the full video of Tusse and the sleeves ‘in action’ during the Eurovision Final 2021.

Hawthorne and Heaney studies virtual tour of Rei Kawakubo’s collection: Collecting Commes

May 13, 2021 by Intern

A global Pandemic would have thought to close a lot of opportunities to explore and continue with normal livelihood, however one could say it has opened a lot of opportunities for us to stay in touch with radical discoveries more through virtual experiences. The NGV exhibition, “Collecting Comme” features Rei Kawakubo’s contemporary fashion collection.

Cloak from the Blood & Roses collection, 2014 by Rei Kawakubo’s

Rei Kawakubo’s, features 65 garments from over 40 collections, she wanted to make clothes that didn’t exist before. Not only in her fashion, it’s the way clothes are made to reinvent a new style. She overturns conventional ideas of existing fashions and beauty, through this she disrupts normalized characteristics of the fashionable body.

Takamasa Takahashi, a Japanese fan of Rei’s work who collected her work since the 1970s, and put together most of the Collecting Comes, he was purchasing clothes for himself even though the garments were from a women’s collection he felt they could define his character. He would buy a pair of wide, quilted cotton pants, to him the collection held a baggy and genderless style. This notion of breaking typical rules of fashion entices many who seek to find their own fashion which is not the normalised feminine or masculine shapes and colour used in present fashion as we know today.

Installation view of Collecting Comes, 2020 by Rei Kawakubo’s

Transcending Gender collection, 1995 by Rei Kawakubo’s

However, in this exhibition Rei’s work upheld a higher strain on women’s wear, as we can see from this exhibition, the shapes are still androgynous, however the fabrics, colours and the garment making still holds very feminine features, making folds into a flower shape or using bold colours like vibrant reds although, they still hold neutral colour scheme and feature masculine shapes of blazers. Leaving a controversial question when looking at her clothes as you are not left with a certain idea of who will be wearing them.

Collecting Comes, 2020

One of my favourite from Rei’s collection is this plaid poncho garment, although this could be mistaken as skirt used as a scarf. This notion of using ‘deconstructed’ clothing form reinforces the contravention of a new reinvented way of making clothes. Rei is always overlooking normalized fashion and makes it her own with undefining meaning. The purpose through her fashion proposals, reframes predetermined concepts of attraction and rearticulating a new connection between body and dress.

Rei Kawakubo’s collection is very exciting and fresh, the geometric shapes and symmetry used disrupts usual characteristics of typical fashions of the body. Breaking the rules of gender fashion Rei Kawakubo’s collection leaves us refreshed with a new approach to fashion, given though the convenience of the virtual tours.

Words written Mohini Patel

Photo’s sourced from collecting comes ngv online exhibition https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/exhibition/collecting-comme/

Hawthorne and Heaney take a look at Messums London: MATERIAL:TEXTILE, Modern British Female Designers

March 8, 2021 by Sophie Reynolds

Messums London has presented us with an online exhibition: MATERIAL: TEXTILE, Modern British Female Designers, bringing together for the first time historically important textiles by female designers working in Britain. Offered as an online and virtual exhibition, along with a catalogue and podcast, it highlights the relevance of mid-century textiles and the vital role they played in the evolution of taste and culture.

Mussums London; MATERIAL: TEXTILE

Focus is on the bold vision and leading lights of 1950-1970’s textile design and introduces their work to new collectors.

The video they have released offers you a kind of virtual wonder around the gallery whilst the context of the exhibition is explained. It then goes more in depth into each textile artwork. Highly educational and some exceptional works that I have never come across before.

Carillion, 1970s

Mezzanine Yellow, 1958

Sweetcorn Green, 1958

Messums Productions also have a YouTube channel with more content on other virtual tours of exhibitions. So if you’re missing an Art Gallery visit, I would recommend a visit to their YouTube channel. Enjoy!

Words written by Sophie Reynolds

Images sourced from Mussums London

Hawthorne & Heaney: Lord Justice Nugee Covid Style Icon

February 4, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

It would seem that our recent project for Lord Justice Nugee has caught the imagination of the public as we find ourselves in a flurry of interest in the project and piece. We have found ourselves published and quoted in a variety of sources such as ‘The Times Diary’ , Scottish Legal News and ‘Legal Cheek’.

This was a really fun and inventive project for us to work on and we are delighted that some many people seem to appreciate the work that went into it. If you fancy seeing more about the making of this project you can watch a video about its creation on our sister companies youtube channel.

If you would like to get in touch with us about your own, similar project, let us know and we can see what we can make for you too- info@embroidery.london

Hawthorne & Heaney on Wedding Invites

September 25, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Quite a few months ago, we were working on this really fun project that got us yearning for the summer when it was still a bit grey.

With it’s bright colours and quirky design, these have to be about the coolest wedding invites on the block. We were tasked with adding the stitching to the edges of these postcards in a thick, bright pink thread.

We would be chuffed to get one of these through the post, I’m sure you would agree.

So if you are planning now for a smaller, more personal feel to your invitations, why not consider having us help you with your own stitching style touches?

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020

July 22, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

This year thus far, it can definitely be said to have been an unusual one at the least but some things must remain and the show go on. This year’s textile graduates may not have had their usual physical showcase of their works but they have worked very hard and will be graduating none the less.

We at Hawthorne and Heaney are very proud to have these young people choose to spend some of their industry experience time with us, and after working with them in the studio for some months it is wonderful to see how their work has grown and progressed since we saw it last. Therefore it is out pleasure to bring you this year’s graduates from the Hawthorne and Heaney intern community:

Kiah Nicole Fisher– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Luminescence: ”This project is based on the scientific theory of the existence of other dimensional/parallel universes and visualising the journey one might take to enter another dimension. Parallel universes have been a scientific theory studied by many physicists and mathematicians throughout the centuries, including Plato who’s Cave allegory seems to imply that our three dimensional world is but a projection of an even higher dimensional reality. I was initially inspired by the story of Alice in Wonderland, when Alice falls into the rabbit hole. Mathematician and writer Lewis Carroll was able to visualise the idea of connecting multiple universes through the possibility of wormholes within this children’s book.

Taking inspiration from science fiction movies and series that attempted to visualise inter-dimensional travel through hyperspace with flashing lights, such as 2001: A Space Odyssey, I mainly used photography to create original imagery that attempted to capture light in different states such as refraction, emission, and much more.

With this imagery, I was able to create a print design collection for a menswear/unisex utilitarian style collection. This collection would be an accessible fashion collection for those inner nerds who have a love for science fiction but don’t necessarily want to indulge in the fantasy of costume. This collection allows people to express their passion for science fiction, while making it fashionable and wearable.”

Laura Hill– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Conscious Coastlines: ”Uses organic cotton, organic linen, recycled fibres, and yarn leftover from previous projects that would otherwise go to waste.
All synthetic dyes used contain no animal ingredients and were chosen based on their minimal levels of toxicity to the environment.

My final major project explores the creation of a “conscious” collection of textiles for the everyday interior environment and the everyday consumer. The theme is inspired by the natural beauty of all elements British coastlines. In the context of the project, “conscious” means that no animal products have been used in any stage of production, and so it can be regarded as a vegan collection. “Conscious” also refers to the choices to use more sustainable fibres and less toxic dyes.

Within my work I am a fast learner, observant, and methodical in my process. My strengths include a good understanding and use of colour, and the way in which I successfully translate a design from drawing to fabric. In my future career I aim to promote cruelty-free and sustainable practises within the textiles industry, and hope to work for a company whose values on these topics align with my own.”

Fading Waves

Amy Pickard– Huddersfield University- Costume with Textiles

”This year, I chose the construction with textiles pathway, specialising in embroidery. For my Final Major Project, I selected ‘Awakened’, a modern-day YA vampyre novel by P.C. & Kristin Cast. I’ve created the costume for Queen Sgiach, a powerful feminist and Scottish vampyre Warrior, who resides on the Isle of Skye. This directly inspired the colours, textures and motifs in her portrayal. Creating for a simulcast theatre performance allowed for detailed textiles, goldwork and beading, alongside bold digital embroidery to be explored throughout the project. Sustainability has been the key ethos surrounding my project/ practice this year. I sourced second-hand fabrics and accessories, used surplus or handmade embellishments, e.g. homemade sequins, and minimised waste when creating my costume and textiles collection. Similarly, I used only viscose instead of traditional polyester threads. For these, Madeira UK granted me a student sponsorship. Through this project, I have progressed my passion for embroidery and construction, predominantly corsetry. I also explored my interests with the following companies through a placement year: Oxfam Online Shop; The Alhambra Theatre; Hawthorne and Heaney; Hand & Lock. Additionally, I started my own business to fund my London placements; I am developing this further after graduation.”

Jessica Strain– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Nature Reclaiming Spaces: ”Jessica’s graduate collection Nature Reclaiming Spaces, focuses on fusing the best of what modern machinery has to offer with specialist hand led embroidery and lacemaking techniques. Passion for manual processes can be seen throughout Jessica’s work; double exposure film photography, shuttle tatting and limerick lace were driving processes for this project.

Sustainability is at the heart of Jessica’s design process; she experimented with natural dyeing at home and spent hundreds of hours embroidering her pieces by hand. This intensive and considered approach to design is something she will take forward in her career. She aspires to continue creating work in a studio environment, honing her embroidery skills through future projects.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

Abigail Tominey- Smith – Nottingham Trent University- Textiles

The Feel Good Feminine: ”Bringing together beautiful feminine florals and powerful text to represent strong women of the 21st century. Powerful words to showcase powerful women, to contrast with, and highlight their femininity. Created to inspire positive well-being and to improve the mental health of women through promotion of empowering words. Adding an additional level of meaning and a personal aspect to each design, producing a garment with emotional durability. Designing a luxurious and individual collection for a high-end bespoke womenswear market, personalised with text. Incorporating a calm and delicate colour palette on a range of sophisticated fabrics with mix of digital and hand embellished elements.”

I’m sure that has left you feeling quite inspired by these designers, we can’t wait to see what comes next for them as they embark on their careers.