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Hawthorne & Heaney for the Tiffany Gala

August 12, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

We recently had the pleasure of embroidering bespoke napkins for the August Tiffany Gala.

The event was organised by Alison Price Co. at the National Gallery in London’s Trafalgar Square, a beautiful setting for luxury cocktails and an evening meal.

Hawthorne & Heaney for the Tiffany Gala London Hand Embroidery — Tiffany Gala at the National Gallery | Photo by Alison Price Co.

We were commissioned to embroider the ‘Tiffany ‘ logo in aqua blue onto 180 napkins, which were used to adorn every dinner place at the event. Each was decorated with a Tiffany napkin, flowers, candles and extravagant tableware for a truly opulent event.

Drawn & Formed Exhibition

August 5, 2022 by Intern

The Goldsmith’s Centre’s Drawn + Formed exhibition; in partnership with the Worshipful Company of Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers

This exhibition explores the history and contemporary uses of hand-drawn wire in embroidery, jewellery and silversmithing. London was first introduced to gold and silver wire drawing by craftsmen from Europe around the 15th century, however, there is reference to combining metal wire with textiles as far back as the writing of the bible.

Wire drawing is the process of hand making wire for jewellery and silversmithing, using a draw bench at room temperature. The draw bench reduces the thickness of the metal by forcing it through a series of draw plates, although today metal thread is most commonly mass manufactured using moulds. The resulting wire is polished and coated with a precious metal, after which the wire can be drawn and reduced to a tenth of the size of a human hair!

This necklace by Teri Howes (Image 1) was inspired by the double helix structure of DNA. The use of contrasting gold and grey/black filaments highlights the helical structure more obviously. Howes uses crochet to create her jewellery pieces, an unlikely technique when using wire, but very effective.

Drawn & Formed Exhibition London Hand Embroidery — Image 1: DNA Necklace by Teri Howes – 18ct gold, fine silver, oxidised fine silver, grey diamonds, black diamonds | Photo taken by Cadi Williams

This display case (Image 2) was almost hidden in plain sight as you entered the exhibition and it was only when I returned to the entrance that I noticed the familiar items from the exhibition advert. They were smaller than I expected but this made the intricacy even more impressive.

I can see why the curators chose the stunning Tiger by Laura Baverstock to promote the exhibition; I noticed I wasn’t the only one admiring it whilst there. The Lenticular Brooches by Andrew Lam were packed with scale-like beads, appearing like textured fur from afar.

This goldwork design titled Morphosis by artist Annalisa Middleton (Image 3) immediately caught my eye due to the striking contrast of bright colours against the shimmering gold. This has to be my favourite piece from the exhibition. Middleton took inspiration from cellular biology and marine life and combined this with her interest in futuristic technologies to create this fantastical, organic, data capsule. The artist describes the design as a ‘portal’ for the viewer to be immersed in her world. From a biological perspective you could interpret the main feature of the design as a virus or a cell filled with a variety of organelles.

Image 4 shows embroidery in a more unusual frame in the form of a used alarm clock. Pankhurst started her alarm clock series with Lockdown O’Clock, an alarm clock with an embroidered face and great feathery wings, at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic. This most recent addition to the alarm clock series was inspired by nature and growth, something that many appreciated more throughout lockdown.

Another personal favourite was this rose gold, three-dimensional piece titled Embrace by Naomi Aindow (Images 5 & 6). I kept coming back to this display and would notice extra details every time. This body adornment piece is part of Aindow’s Spores of Life collection inspired by the intricate details of lichen and moss. The focus of this shoulder piece is enhancing the scale of these details through textured hand stitching and beading. I particularly like the contrast between the smooth, shiny, glass beads and the soft, comfortable fields of french knots. The hand embroidered forms remind me of the diverse species seen in coral reef photography.

Overall I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit to The Goldsmith’s Centre and would highly recommend it to anyone else interested in goldwork, silversmithing and body adornment. My favourite design was easily the goldwork Morphosis piece by Annalisa Middleton, due to its biological context and personal connection to the artist. The exhibition has inspired me to be more adventurous and explore more obscure materials and processes in my practice.

Written by Cadi Williams

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Exhibition details:

The Goldsmith’s Centre, 42 Britton Street, London EC1M 5AD

Free admission

16 June 2022 – 15 September 2022, 9am – 6pm

Ceremonial Embroidery

April 7, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Embroidery is a popular addition for university, legal and military ceremonial dress for robes and uniforms. For small scale commissions from private enthusiasts to full sets of robes for well know heritage companies Hawthorne & Heaney have the privilege of working on ceremonial embroidery for projects all over the world.

Ceremonial Embroidery London Hand Embroidery — Gold cut work cuff embroidery

We pride ourselves on our ability to produce traditional cut work and purl embroidery at home and overseas with reliable lead times and faultless quality. Our experts have over 40 years experience in the ceremonial gold work industry making our product and service unparalleled.

In contrast to this we also run a digital embroidery workshop and are able to offer incredible results, with extremely short lead times. With lots of experimentation we have developed our own unique way to create the traditional hand embroidery and gold work effects using the digital process. These techniques and skills are what gives our small team the ability to produce stunning, large scale pieces within a very tight turn around.

If you wish to get in touch with us about embroidery for ceremonial dress, head to our contact page for our contact details and we will be delighted to help with your enquiry.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits ‘Thierry Mugler: Couturissme’

April 1, 2022 by Intern

This exhibition ‘Thierry Mugler : Couturissime’ is on at the Musée des arts Decoratifs, Paris. A wonderful exhibition to go and see should you be in Paris.

The exhibition focuses around the work and life of Thierry Mugler (1948-2022). Known for his avant-garde techniques and use of interesting materials like faux fur, vinyl, latex, glass, PVC and chrome. His ‘fantasy-tinged architectural style and bold silhouettes have made their mark on the history of fashion’.

Exhbition Signage, Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium , London, 1997

The exhibition showcased over 140 pieces, almost all of which had never been seen outside his ‘industrial couture’ atelier. Also shown are videos, photos, music videos, accessories, stage costumes and sketches.

La Chimère Collection 1997-98, ‘La Tonkinoise’

Metamorophosis: Fantasy Bestiary

In 1997-98 two collections debuted by Mugler, Les Insects and La Chimère. These turned heads due to their fantastical and mythical depictions. Taking inspiration from Insects, reptiles, birds and butterflies. Les Atlantes, took inspiration from the sea, in all its mythical depths.

Les Insectes Collection 1997

Mugler was an innovator, and determined to use synthetic materials in his work opposed to real skins or fur. He created his own versions, the most famous of which are his embossed leather jumpsuits, pieced together to resemble crocodile skins.

Another example of this is the stunning plumage on his butterfly dress. A long velvet sheath with flared train adorned with peacock feathers.

La Chimère Collection 1997-98

Mugler embodied a key moment in French fashion history, when the ‘Jeunes Créatuers’ put Paris back in fashion competition with the rest of the world.

One of the most breath-taking and interesting pieces was his famous La Chimère gown. This piece was designed in collaboration with the famous corset designer ‘Mr Pearl and the artist ‘Jean-Jaques Urcun. It is said to be one of the most expensive couture creations in history.

‘La Chimère’ from La Chimère Collection 1997-98

A long sheath dress, and fitted corset, adorned in ‘scales’ embellished with feathers, horsehair and crystals. It was one of the pieces in this exhibition that took your breath away, whether it be by the dazzling crystals and embellishment or the ‘scaled’ effect.

Futuristic & Fembot Couture

Presented in 1989, the Hiver Buick collection paid homage to the American car designer Harley J. Earl, responsible for the 1959 Cadillac Eldorado’s famous tail fins.

The collection played on these ideas, featuring a metallic finish, ‘convertible’ sheath gowns, ‘radiator’ belts and ‘fender’ bustiers.

Tire Look Rubber Suit from Les Insectes Collection 1997 & A velvet suit with florescent Line embroidery from ‘Music-Hall’ Collection 1990-91

A later collaboration with Jean-Jacques Urcun and Jean-Pierre Delcros (an aircraft bodywork specialist) created mystical robotic-couture creatures.

Maschinenmensch from the 20th Anniversary collection 1995-6

One of Mugler’s all-time masterpieces was the ‘Maschinenmensch’ which was presented in 1995 at the 20th anniversary show. It plays homage to the character of ‘Futura’ from the dystopian novel Metropolis. The outfit took 6 months to make, and is reminiscent of a crabs shell in its construction. The body armours plastic internal framework enables the wearer to move.

The Mugler Lab

From experiences when he was young, Mugler often looked to the sky and his favourite star, shining bluer than the others. He took to thinking of this star as his guiding angel, following him though life.

This later formed part of the inspiration for his perfume line, which he wanted to smell ‘so delectable you want to eat it’

A Luminous dress from the Les Médases Collection 1999-2000

Staging Fashion

Fascinated by breath-taking architecture and the immensity of natural settings, Mugler went on to photograph his own muses and create his own campaign visuals. He took to extreme locations, inspired by their sheer beauty and power. Photographing muses such as Jerry Hall in locations like an iceberg in Greenland, the dunes of the Sahara or atop the eagles of the Chrysler building.

A silk chiffon cape gown adorned with crystals from the 10th Anniversary Collection, 1984-5 and an image from the iceberg photoshoot

Mugler considered costume essential in the construction and enhancement of an individual’s life, staging it to make it more beautiful and fun.

Belle de Jour & Belle de Nuit

Mugler’s ‘glamazon’, a stylish, urban and unconventional woman defied the early 70’s hippie movement style. Broad hats, architectural silhouettes and revealing cleavage defined his glamazon woman. He thought of ‘Elegance is guts, it’s nerve’.

Garments from the 20th anniversary collection. With a fitted velvet coat with snow look crystals and feather embellishments

Mugler adopted materials like latex and vinyl, often used in the underground scene and turned them into elegant classics in his collections. The Mugler Look made history.

A Tuxedo-style jacket with see through back adorned with crystals from the Ritz Collection 1992-93

Too Funky

In 1992 George Michae released the music video for his hit song ‘Too Funky’ music video. During this time, George Michael had fallen out with his record company and boycotted appearing in his own videos to spite them. For ‘Too Funky’ he chose to use footage of a Mugler show, couture outfits and the models.

Details from outfits which appeared in the Too Funky video

This wonderful video also allowed Mugler to reveal the contrast between glamour out on the runway and the chaos behind the scenes

Wrought Iron crinoline adorned with sequins and crystals from the Les Cows Boys Collection 1992

This exhibition truly made us fall in love with design and embroidery all over again, with the dazzling sequins and elegant forms of the designs.

Thank you to Museé des Arts Decoratifs for this beautiful exhibition.

https://madparis.fr/thierry-mugler-couturissime-en

Words and Images by Rosie Watkins

Corporate Branding Embroidery

March 28, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Do you have an offsite to prepare for or just want to treat you team ? Hawthorne & Heaney are a mayfair based embroiderer specialising in quality embroidery and fast lead times. We dedicate the same attention to customer service as we do to embroidery detail and our expert team are on hand to consult and find solutions for your branded goods.

We are happy to work on pre bought items and also help source where needed. Being based in Mayfair makes us very flexible on urgent orders and because of our location we can offer a central London consultation service and an opportunity to check samples before actioning large orders.

Our team has many years experience working with companies and their corporate identity, we often personalize items with initials on a range of pieces, from shoes and bags, to sweatshirts, polo shirts and gilets – perfect for showing your appreciation to hard working staff members and valued customers.

Previous well known clients include Boots, Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, Ella’s Kitchen and many local finance and law firms.

To enquire about your corporate brand embroidery, get in touch here.

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Louise Bourgeois: The Woven Child at the Hayward Gallery

March 25, 2022 by Intern

The Louise Bourgeois: The woven child was certainly an exhibition that made you stop and really consider the thought process of each piece, what emotion and psychological motive she was trying to portray to the viewer. With her use of materials ranging from steel to bone to gold and lingerie, each surface represents a memory and emotion from her life.

The last two decades of her practice became more and more oriented around fabrics and the amenable characteristics of them, the ability to cut, tear, rip and then sewing them back together which Bourgeois used in a strong metaphorical style. Enhanced by the tactile sense of the pieces which evoked vulnerability and intimacy which Bourgeois furthered by using her own personal garments and bed linens in her work. She stated they were her ‘second skin’, they had been present at the monumental events in her life and were now a representation of that memory.

As you enter the exhibition the first installation you are drawn to is ‘Cloth and Bone’, a steel pole has cattle bones attached to the end of rods which hang the artist’s undergarments, all saved from her childhood or of her mothers. Louise Bourgeois believed that the clothes she kept were just as important as the pages of her diary, which I can’t agree with more! Hunting through your wardrobe and finding certain items that suddenly spark a happy memory is just magical. Or more fitting with this exhibition, one that has that sentimental purpose to you, that words in a diary just couldn’t capture.

Louise Bourgeois: The Woven Child at the Hayward Gallery London Hand Embroidery — ‘Untitled, 1996, cloth, bone and steel.
Glenstone Museum, Potomac, Maryland’

Louise Bourgeois explores the meaning of mending and how this is shown through her use of fabric. The sculptures are formed from several distressed or ripped pieces of cloth which are then sewed back together, in a manner where the seams are still raw and visible. A metaphorical stance of human emotional repair which is not always perfect and when we are ‘mended’ we will look different than before how people carry their scars and allow this to be normal and ok, with the finished product becoming a work of art.

Her connection with fabrics is relevant to her mother who was a tapestry restorer, the late exploration from Bourgeois into fabrics suggests that in her later years of her life she wanted to revisit back to her youth and her family seeking familiarity with fabrics.

This series of textiles was based on the character Eugenie Grandet who was oppressed by her father, Bourgeois felt similar with her own father and wanted revenge against him. The artwork was made onto handkerchiefs and tea towels collaged using old embellishments from her hats and dresses, with most frames showing a clock to suggest the passing of time.

My favorite series in the whole exhibition were the stuffed heads, each made with a textiles exterior and molded to express a human portrait. The aim of these portraits was not to create a likeness to any person but to show a psychological state and emotion, with some of the works having two faces on one head to express the contradicting and complex feelings shown by humans. Each head is made from a different process ranging from cloth to tapestry and needlepoint.

This collection of work was created by Bourgeois when she was trying to understand her youngest son and his withdrawal. The sculptures represent his birth and early life with the figures being distorted and further animated by the concave mirror behind the scenes which added the metaphorical message of a distorted memory. Louise Bourgeois in her own words,

‘There’s is a child who simply refused to be born, his birth was quite late. Was there something that he perceived that prevented him from wanting to leave the womb and go out into the world? How much of who he will be, his feelings and actions, will be pre-determined by this refusal to appear? How will this child face the future? Will he be shy, reduced to silence, awkward or even hostile?

This creation was probably one of the most striking in there, a life size shaped human hangs from a single point attached to the ceiling, made entirely from black cloth and only the bottom half is recognisable as human limbs with the top consisting of a spiral. The twisted nature of the piece evokes nausea, dizziness and disorientation; it shows the physical manifestation of psychological states such as fear, anxiety and alienation. Bourgeois interest in the spiral shape stems from her fear of losing control, with the winding of the spiral being a tightening action and retreating into a point of disappearance. Then with the opposite movement of twisting outwards is a representation of giving up control and allowing positive energy.

If you don’t like creepy crawlies then look away now! The Spider however for Bourgeois was a symbol of a ‘mender’ as if you break its web it will just rebuild it. This creature sits above the cage with its legs wrapped around it in a protective manner, Bourgeois personal belongings sit within the metal cage again, another nod to the sitting time. However the large scale of the spider has hints of a predator and if you digest the facts of spiders they have cannibal characteristics which again show’s a more complex side to the artist and her feelings towards motherhood and her sexuality.

This glass box contains hanging conjoined heads each with two faces, the black fabric resembling depression, mourning and melancholia. The mirrors in each bottom corner of the box show the scrutiny the faces face, along with the idea of fragmentation and unease.

Near the end of the exhibition the sculptures begin to become more abstract still with gestures towards the human figure but very faint. One installation that really caught my eye was a collection of vertically stacked shapes. All were made from clothing or bed linen, terry cloth, tapestry and upholstery and unlike her other work had a sense of regularity. Louise Bourgeois felt the predictability of formal repetition and the rules given to geometry allowed for her life to have some order, she felt the set rules were the exact opposite to the emotional world she inhabited.

‘Soft fabrics show a sense of vulnerability and intimacy, while also remaining flexible, adaptable and resilient’, This statement from the Hayward Gallery I felt really concluded the exhibition and the change of materials presented by Louise Bourgeois which perfectly mirrored her emotional state.

Thank you to the Hayward Gallery for such a wonderful exhibition, if this was an interesting read I would highly recommend you visit yourself.

https://southbanklondon.com/events/southbank-centre/louise-bourgeois-woven-child

All pictures from Amelia Vance (Hawthorne and Heaney Intern)

Hawthorne & Heaney on Show at Fortnum and Mason

March 18, 2022 by Natasha Searls-Punter

We have the great privilage of being able to say that we currently have some works on display at the world renound Fortnum and Mason, London. As part of the celebrations for the Queen’s Jubilee, Fortnums are holding a series of exhibitions, spotlighting the artistic talents of British Craftsmanship. In partnership with QEST, the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust, these exhibitions will show works from the scholars in a variety of fields, starting with ‘Wicker, Clay, Thread’ which are are delighted to be a part of.

Hawthorne & Heaney’s director, Claire Barrett is a scholar of QEST for Heraldic drafting, a much forgotten about skill but essential for the kinds of embroideries that Hawthorne & Heaney produce. The study of which has been applied directly to the hand embroidery artworks such as the working pocket sample below and the Positilion Badges in the case.

This style of drawing has gone onto inform the approach of these machine embroidery pieces to give them a similar luxurious feel but for some more practical applications, be it cushions or for costumes.

The exhibition is such as beautiful example of the incredible works of craftsmanship that are being produced in the UK, it would not do to talk about our bit and not highlight some of our favourites. Bob Johnston, wicker sculpter made this stag head piece, along with a cow version which is also on display which are arguably the most striking pieces on display. When we visited, the cow had already been purchased but the stag was still up for grabs.

Pictures dont do this piece called ‘Just a Drop of Milk for Me’ by Robert Walker justice. Specialising in ‘Verre Eglomise’ this piece uses a combination of etching, guilding, filigree and hand painting.

These colourful characters were created by hand embroidery scholar, Susannah Weiland . A mixed media artist, Weiland combines her printed drawings with stitching to create these final pieces which I’m sure you will agree are just precious.

We also have a second appearance in the exhibition with this typography piece which also draws on Claire’s Heraldic Drafting skills to weave the leaves within the design together. Machine embroidered onto velvet, this piece uses raised stitching to bring movement and character to the Monogram.

Being amongst these works is very inspiring and has already got us thinking about what we want to produce next! Do pop up to the 3rd floor to see the pieces which will be on display until 10th April, being hotly followed by by the next exhibition on ‘Wood, Glass, Paper’

Hawthorne & Heaney on ‘Faberge in London’ at the Victoria and Albert Museum

March 14, 2022 by Intern

Walking into the exhibition immediately you feel the nature of the exclusivity of the brand and the luxury of which these ornaments possess. Each object displayed exquisitely in their own selective groups laid on soft fabrics and under crystal clear light, allowing for the viewer to see them sparkling away in all their glory. With each piece being highly personalized to the receiver yet still maintaining that Faberge identity.

Hawthorne & Heaney on 'Faberge in London' at the Victoria and Albert Museum London Hand Embroidery — First room you walk into, all soft furnishings apart from the tiny encrusted crowns which sit in this cabinet.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Once you enter through the doors of the exhibition no cameras are allowed, so we did not get any images of the artwork, but this led me to show an increased interest in the people behind the work. I do not want to take away from the magnificent ornaments and their beauty which you should see for yourself. I want to emphasize the processes, the skills and the people behind each part of the journey of these detailed ornaments.

Firstly Carl Faberge himself, was not the original founder of the company, his father was in 1842 in St. Petersburg. Carl Faberge joined his father in the family business once he had traveled europe and studied as an apprentice of a goldsmith, it wasn’t until 1872 when he fully took over and the business was propelled forward by his genius and creative mind, allowing for the name Faberge to become known all other Russia and internationally.

Faberge himself did not make any of the products, even though he was highly skilled, which relates back to his ethos of caring more about the value of the craft that goes into the production of the piece rather than the value of the product itself. Each stage of the process was trusted to a highly skilled craftsman all with different expertise and working under the guidance of separate chief workmasters. 1901 saw the collaboration of all of these separate expertise under one roof when Faberge moved all production to one house in St. Petersburg, all production was carried out on the different floors and a show room was downstairs to allow customers to browse the wonderful collections. The growing strength and popularity of Faberge’s work was evident as his business flourished.

It was time for expansion, Faberge had to decide between France or England. He had spent a lot of time in both with the French luxury jewelry being a strong pull, yet England was the final decision due to the loyal client relations with the ruling families within England and the increase of wealth in English society along with the awareness and desire for Russian luxury pieces, such as Faberge’s work.

The Edwardians enjoyed gift giving between the wealthy and royal families, however there was a fine line between giving a gift out of gratitude and giving a gift in order to buy someone’s favour. A piece from Faberge’s workshop was the ideal answer to that, as most of his works had more emphasis on the value of the skill in production rather than the value of what it was made from, hence popularity and demand grew in England within the aristocracy.

Once in London, Henrik Wigstrom, who started as an apprentice with the previous chief workmaster now moved up to be the chief workmaster himself, carrying this role from 1903 till 1918. He played a prominent role in the London store and helped allow for the expansion to be successful outside of Russia. One more individual who really caught my attention was Alma Pihl, a women designer employed by Faberge at the young age of 20 years old which was very unusual for the time as there was a small number of women in the industry and an even small amount who were actual designers like herself. She was born into a family of master jewelers and designers prominent in Faberges workshops, and her own designs were quickly seen in Faberge’s work, with many of her pieces of jewellery being some of Faberge’s most celebrated today along with two imperial egg designs.

The War and Russian Revolution saw the start of the downfall for Faberge, with World War one affecting demand internationally. Many now saw extravagant gifts as not a necessity and insulting to the time where everyone was meant to be aiding the cause of supporting their country in a World War. In addition the Faberge factory was now conscripted to making munition, as his artisan ability and workers skills were ideal for making such metal work. The creative ornaments were still trying to be made, as the products changed to more modest gifts like cooking bowls and beakers made from simpler and more affordable materials.

Then the Russian Revolution forced Faberge to shut his doors, Faberge became heartbroken and devastated, he lacked purpose if he could not create his works of art. He ended up fleeing Russia in fear of prosecution, same as many of his colleagues and ended up in Switzerland where he unfortunately died, still broken-hearted at the complete disintegration of his life’s work in 1920.

The legacy of his life’s work still lives on to this day, we still treasure what was managed to be salvaged from Russia and admire what was kept by the British ruling families today. The craftsmanship is still remembered and honored along with the actual ornaments that we see presented in the exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The fact that we still are able to see and look in awe at the work from a hundred years ago shows the quality, talent and skill that went into all his work.

I loved the exhibition. Each cabinet was a treasure-trove of beauty, you found yourself leaning closer and closer to see the fine details and extreme techniques used to create such exquisite masterpieces.

Thank you to the Victoria and Albert Museum for curating such a wonderful exhibition! https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/faberge

Words by Amelia Vance, Images courtesy of the V&A Museum