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Hawthorne & Heaney at Cad & The Dandy

November 14, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Event season is well and truly here, and we love being involved in live activations – this year’s Cad & The Dandy event in their Savile Row showroom was no exception!

Hawthorne & Heaney at Cad & The Dandy London Hand Embroidery — Hawthorne & Heaney live personalisation at Cad & The Dandy

Being a high end bespoke tailors, the product had to fit Cad & The Dandy’s luxury aesthetic and brand values, so we were given the task of monogramming quality items such as bespoke shirts, silk handkerchief’s and labels for jacket linings with tiny, delicate lettering.

If you would like to enquire about hiring us for your next event, contact us on info@embroidery.london – We’d love to work with you to create an event that fits with your brand guidelines.

Embroidery For Film and Performance

October 28, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

As a London based Embroidery studio, we have enjoyed working on a vast range of projects for film, TV and performance.

Embroidery in film not only creates an impact and looks beautiful, it often sets a scene by indicating a characters wealth, heritage, and even plays a part in specifying an era where necessary. In performance, it’s a way of artistic expression and is often used to make stunning, standout costumes for stage.

Dr. Strange

Our most high profile embroidery project for film to date is the exceptional costumes for Benedict Cumberbatch’s character, Dr. Strange and co star Chiwetel Ejiofor, Baron Modo in the 2016 blockbuster.

Embroidery For Film and Performance London Hand Embroidery — Cross Stitch Embroidered Dr. Strange Costume

These were detailed pieces that made up both garments – some with a unique cross stitch effect created with digital embroidery, and others with traditional vermicelli embroidery. Upon first look you may not notice the detail and craftsmanship on these pieces, however they play a vital part in creating the overall effect for both costumes.

FKA Twigs, Magdalene

A fantastic example of how we can push boundaries through experimental digital embroidery techniques is the work we did for FKA Twigs’ 2019 tour. We had the pleasure of working on five outfit changes for the artist with superstar stylists Ed Kay and Matthew Josephs.

The head scarf and corset in the above photo are just two of the pieces we embroidered for FKA Twigs’ Magdalena Tour.

We often work closely with the design team to make sure that placement and size is accurate, especially for embroideries like this corset piece which made up the entire back panel of the garment.

‘Diana’ a BBC Documentary

Embroidery for film doesn’t always have to be for costumes or grand interiors. At Hawthorne & Heaney, we worked on a series of embroideries for the 2017 BBC documentary, Diana.

These were simple, script text pieces which were used as chapter openings for the on screen tribute. A unique way to separate chapters in television.

We love working on embroidery for film and performance here at Hawthorne & Heaney, it’s a joy to see how they come together in the on the big screen or on stage and we can’t wait to get started on the next!

To enquire about embroidery for your production, get in touch here.

Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear, at the Victoria and Albert Museum

September 2, 2022 by Intern

Masculine fashion, what does it look like to you? Menswear has evolved and changed over the years as society has developed along with international influence and the greater understanding of what masculinity means to us as individuals and designers. The Victoria and Albert Museum has masterfully curated this exhibition which guides you from the early European menswear, heavily influenced by the idealized chiseled Greek and roman gods, through to the French revolution and its influence on fashion, and then finally finishing in contemporary fashion and how designer’s look to challenge concepts and dissolve the boundaries of menswear.

This in depth exhibition really describes and allows you to understand the why’s and the how’s of menswear, it provides an abundance of information to really allow for you see the links between the period the clothes were worn and what the colours, styles, fabrics and connotations meant to the men as well as society. It gives you the information you thought you already knew, but allows you to see how general life influenced fashion and hopes to influence the public on how menswear is extremely characterful, and a constantly changing industry.

Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear, at the Victoria and Albert Museum London Hand Embroidery — Giorgio Armani 1994 – Cotton, Silk, Linen

The first room is full of many different topics. With one side showing 18th century under garments and an impressive Armani suit, and the other side overcoming dysphoria. Giorgio Armani’s approach to menswear derived from his respect and appreciation for the male figure – he stripped out the internal structure and let the fabric drape, aiming to reduce rigidity in the look and soften menswear.

For his from his spring summer collection 1996, Jean-Paul Gaultier printed images of clothes onto garments. However, this jacket on show displayed a male torso, a trend we are beginning to see more of in fashion recently.

The exhibition also addressed ‘man scaping’ and ‘body forming’, which is the use of elasticated fabrics to change the body’s form. Spanks, a company originally founded for women’s wear hosiery expanded in 2010 into menswear and allowed for diversity on the high street.

The history of the Jockstrap was also covered – how it was originally designed for cyclist’s and as the modern boxer briefs became tighter, the need for the jockstrap disappeared yet it still holds an erotic currency. Through visiting this exhibition we also learnt that GC2B was the first trans-owned company who produced binders; gender-affirming undergarments worn to flatten the chest which are used by a wide spectrum of transgender men and transmasculine, non-binary people.

The stereotypical ‘masculine’ body form of the greek god’s was adressed with towering sculptures of the male form on display, with reference to Hercules who is the archetype of strength and bravery. He is often depicted fighting or armed, yet the most famous portrayal of him shows him at rest, hinting at his emotions as well as showing his exaggerated physique. I find this quite interesting and telling of how the industry is growing along with the understanding and allowing of men’s emotional feelings, which is increasingly being shown in fashion.

Designers Virgil Abloh for Off-White, JW Anderson and Ludovic de Saint Sernin recreated the classical depictions of ‘The Three Graces’. For this they used sheer fabrics like organza and taffeta which are usually associated with womenswear, encouraging gender neutrality as a reality, not a trend.

Menswear for many centuries was flamboyant, colourful and full of flounce and lace to show wealth, power and status. Those who could afford to bring dyes over from America, Asia and Africa would want to show that they could, and so would wear the bright colours these dyes created. The colour pink, with rich hue’s of magenta was a sign of money, not of gender identity which it is seen as today. Lace and ribbons were also a highly common element of a man’s look, especially in the French courts. An English gentleman John Evelyn commented ‘that one youth had as much ribbon on him as would have plundered six shops… all his body was dres’t like a may pole’ – but now when we see a man dressed in bright colours or with added detail of delicate lace around the trim, we think it is a modern twist of the original straight forward men’s wear, how wrong could we be.

The ‘classical’ monochrome sleek men’s look we think of today started in Europe after rapid change as consequence of the French revolution 1789-99. Lavish Textiles and ornamentation still featured on womenswear, while the spirit of rationality reshaped menswear into a more practical form as men started to adopt a more practical and reserved attire. The industrialisation of cities like London and Paris saw the increase of soberly and uniformly dressed men, black became the new ‘trendy’ colour.

Tailors looked to exploit this by using one colour that allowed for emphasis on sculpting the human form and adding subtle detail, creating the new modern uniform of the men’s suit which was accessible for all. This monochromatic dress suit is the epitome of masculine fashion, however contemporary designers are looking at how to combine masculine and feminine styles together, a very exciting concept!

Within this exhibition there is so much more to unwrap and discover. If you have found this blog has interested you in learning more about modern menswear as well as the history of men’s fashion, we would highly recommend you take a trip to the Victoria and Albert Museum to see it for yourself!

Thank you to the Victoria and Albert Museum for such a great exhibition. Finishing November 2022.

Words by Amelia Vance.

Hawthorne & Heaney for the Tiffany Gala

August 12, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

We recently had the pleasure of embroidering bespoke napkins for the August Tiffany Gala.

The event was organised by Alison Price Co. at the National Gallery in London’s Trafalgar Square, a beautiful setting for luxury cocktails and an evening meal.

Hawthorne & Heaney for the Tiffany Gala London Hand Embroidery — Tiffany Gala at the National Gallery | Photo by Alison Price Co.

We were commissioned to embroider the ‘Tiffany ‘ logo in aqua blue onto 180 napkins, which were used to adorn every dinner place at the event. Each was decorated with a Tiffany napkin, flowers, candles and extravagant tableware for a truly opulent event.

Drawn & Formed Exhibition

August 5, 2022 by Intern

The Goldsmith’s Centre’s Drawn + Formed exhibition; in partnership with the Worshipful Company of Gold and Silver Wyre Drawers

This exhibition explores the history and contemporary uses of hand-drawn wire in embroidery, jewellery and silversmithing. London was first introduced to gold and silver wire drawing by craftsmen from Europe around the 15th century, however, there is reference to combining metal wire with textiles as far back as the writing of the bible.

Wire drawing is the process of hand making wire for jewellery and silversmithing, using a draw bench at room temperature. The draw bench reduces the thickness of the metal by forcing it through a series of draw plates, although today metal thread is most commonly mass manufactured using moulds. The resulting wire is polished and coated with a precious metal, after which the wire can be drawn and reduced to a tenth of the size of a human hair!

This necklace by Teri Howes (Image 1) was inspired by the double helix structure of DNA. The use of contrasting gold and grey/black filaments highlights the helical structure more obviously. Howes uses crochet to create her jewellery pieces, an unlikely technique when using wire, but very effective.

Drawn & Formed Exhibition London Hand Embroidery — Image 1: DNA Necklace by Teri Howes – 18ct gold, fine silver, oxidised fine silver, grey diamonds, black diamonds | Photo taken by Cadi Williams

This display case (Image 2) was almost hidden in plain sight as you entered the exhibition and it was only when I returned to the entrance that I noticed the familiar items from the exhibition advert. They were smaller than I expected but this made the intricacy even more impressive.

I can see why the curators chose the stunning Tiger by Laura Baverstock to promote the exhibition; I noticed I wasn’t the only one admiring it whilst there. The Lenticular Brooches by Andrew Lam were packed with scale-like beads, appearing like textured fur from afar.

This goldwork design titled Morphosis by artist Annalisa Middleton (Image 3) immediately caught my eye due to the striking contrast of bright colours against the shimmering gold. This has to be my favourite piece from the exhibition. Middleton took inspiration from cellular biology and marine life and combined this with her interest in futuristic technologies to create this fantastical, organic, data capsule. The artist describes the design as a ‘portal’ for the viewer to be immersed in her world. From a biological perspective you could interpret the main feature of the design as a virus or a cell filled with a variety of organelles.

Image 4 shows embroidery in a more unusual frame in the form of a used alarm clock. Pankhurst started her alarm clock series with Lockdown O’Clock, an alarm clock with an embroidered face and great feathery wings, at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic. This most recent addition to the alarm clock series was inspired by nature and growth, something that many appreciated more throughout lockdown.

Another personal favourite was this rose gold, three-dimensional piece titled Embrace by Naomi Aindow (Images 5 & 6). I kept coming back to this display and would notice extra details every time. This body adornment piece is part of Aindow’s Spores of Life collection inspired by the intricate details of lichen and moss. The focus of this shoulder piece is enhancing the scale of these details through textured hand stitching and beading. I particularly like the contrast between the smooth, shiny, glass beads and the soft, comfortable fields of french knots. The hand embroidered forms remind me of the diverse species seen in coral reef photography.

Overall I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit to The Goldsmith’s Centre and would highly recommend it to anyone else interested in goldwork, silversmithing and body adornment. My favourite design was easily the goldwork Morphosis piece by Annalisa Middleton, due to its biological context and personal connection to the artist. The exhibition has inspired me to be more adventurous and explore more obscure materials and processes in my practice.

Written by Cadi Williams

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Exhibition details:

The Goldsmith’s Centre, 42 Britton Street, London EC1M 5AD

Free admission

16 June 2022 – 15 September 2022, 9am – 6pm

Ceremonial Embroidery

April 7, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Embroidery is a popular addition for university, legal and military ceremonial dress for robes and uniforms. For small scale commissions from private enthusiasts to full sets of robes for well know heritage companies Hawthorne & Heaney have the privilege of working on ceremonial embroidery for projects all over the world.

Ceremonial Embroidery London Hand Embroidery — Gold cut work cuff embroidery

We pride ourselves on our ability to produce traditional cut work and purl embroidery at home and overseas with reliable lead times and faultless quality. Our experts have over 40 years experience in the ceremonial gold work industry making our product and service unparalleled.

In contrast to this we also run a digital embroidery workshop and are able to offer incredible results, with extremely short lead times. With lots of experimentation we have developed our own unique way to create the traditional hand embroidery and gold work effects using the digital process. These techniques and skills are what gives our small team the ability to produce stunning, large scale pieces within a very tight turn around.

If you wish to get in touch with us about embroidery for ceremonial dress, head to our contact page for our contact details and we will be delighted to help with your enquiry.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits ‘Thierry Mugler: Couturissme’

April 1, 2022 by Intern

This exhibition ‘Thierry Mugler : Couturissime’ is on at the Musée des arts Decoratifs, Paris. A wonderful exhibition to go and see should you be in Paris.

The exhibition focuses around the work and life of Thierry Mugler (1948-2022). Known for his avant-garde techniques and use of interesting materials like faux fur, vinyl, latex, glass, PVC and chrome. His ‘fantasy-tinged architectural style and bold silhouettes have made their mark on the history of fashion’.

Exhbition Signage, Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium , London, 1997

The exhibition showcased over 140 pieces, almost all of which had never been seen outside his ‘industrial couture’ atelier. Also shown are videos, photos, music videos, accessories, stage costumes and sketches.

La Chimère Collection 1997-98, ‘La Tonkinoise’

Metamorophosis: Fantasy Bestiary

In 1997-98 two collections debuted by Mugler, Les Insects and La Chimère. These turned heads due to their fantastical and mythical depictions. Taking inspiration from Insects, reptiles, birds and butterflies. Les Atlantes, took inspiration from the sea, in all its mythical depths.

Les Insectes Collection 1997

Mugler was an innovator, and determined to use synthetic materials in his work opposed to real skins or fur. He created his own versions, the most famous of which are his embossed leather jumpsuits, pieced together to resemble crocodile skins.

Another example of this is the stunning plumage on his butterfly dress. A long velvet sheath with flared train adorned with peacock feathers.

La Chimère Collection 1997-98

Mugler embodied a key moment in French fashion history, when the ‘Jeunes Créatuers’ put Paris back in fashion competition with the rest of the world.

One of the most breath-taking and interesting pieces was his famous La Chimère gown. This piece was designed in collaboration with the famous corset designer ‘Mr Pearl and the artist ‘Jean-Jaques Urcun. It is said to be one of the most expensive couture creations in history.

‘La Chimère’ from La Chimère Collection 1997-98

A long sheath dress, and fitted corset, adorned in ‘scales’ embellished with feathers, horsehair and crystals. It was one of the pieces in this exhibition that took your breath away, whether it be by the dazzling crystals and embellishment or the ‘scaled’ effect.

Futuristic & Fembot Couture

Presented in 1989, the Hiver Buick collection paid homage to the American car designer Harley J. Earl, responsible for the 1959 Cadillac Eldorado’s famous tail fins.

The collection played on these ideas, featuring a metallic finish, ‘convertible’ sheath gowns, ‘radiator’ belts and ‘fender’ bustiers.

Tire Look Rubber Suit from Les Insectes Collection 1997 & A velvet suit with florescent Line embroidery from ‘Music-Hall’ Collection 1990-91

A later collaboration with Jean-Jacques Urcun and Jean-Pierre Delcros (an aircraft bodywork specialist) created mystical robotic-couture creatures.

Maschinenmensch from the 20th Anniversary collection 1995-6

One of Mugler’s all-time masterpieces was the ‘Maschinenmensch’ which was presented in 1995 at the 20th anniversary show. It plays homage to the character of ‘Futura’ from the dystopian novel Metropolis. The outfit took 6 months to make, and is reminiscent of a crabs shell in its construction. The body armours plastic internal framework enables the wearer to move.

The Mugler Lab

From experiences when he was young, Mugler often looked to the sky and his favourite star, shining bluer than the others. He took to thinking of this star as his guiding angel, following him though life.

This later formed part of the inspiration for his perfume line, which he wanted to smell ‘so delectable you want to eat it’

A Luminous dress from the Les Médases Collection 1999-2000

Staging Fashion

Fascinated by breath-taking architecture and the immensity of natural settings, Mugler went on to photograph his own muses and create his own campaign visuals. He took to extreme locations, inspired by their sheer beauty and power. Photographing muses such as Jerry Hall in locations like an iceberg in Greenland, the dunes of the Sahara or atop the eagles of the Chrysler building.

A silk chiffon cape gown adorned with crystals from the 10th Anniversary Collection, 1984-5 and an image from the iceberg photoshoot

Mugler considered costume essential in the construction and enhancement of an individual’s life, staging it to make it more beautiful and fun.

Belle de Jour & Belle de Nuit

Mugler’s ‘glamazon’, a stylish, urban and unconventional woman defied the early 70’s hippie movement style. Broad hats, architectural silhouettes and revealing cleavage defined his glamazon woman. He thought of ‘Elegance is guts, it’s nerve’.

Garments from the 20th anniversary collection. With a fitted velvet coat with snow look crystals and feather embellishments

Mugler adopted materials like latex and vinyl, often used in the underground scene and turned them into elegant classics in his collections. The Mugler Look made history.

A Tuxedo-style jacket with see through back adorned with crystals from the Ritz Collection 1992-93

Too Funky

In 1992 George Michae released the music video for his hit song ‘Too Funky’ music video. During this time, George Michael had fallen out with his record company and boycotted appearing in his own videos to spite them. For ‘Too Funky’ he chose to use footage of a Mugler show, couture outfits and the models.

Details from outfits which appeared in the Too Funky video

This wonderful video also allowed Mugler to reveal the contrast between glamour out on the runway and the chaos behind the scenes

Wrought Iron crinoline adorned with sequins and crystals from the Les Cows Boys Collection 1992

This exhibition truly made us fall in love with design and embroidery all over again, with the dazzling sequins and elegant forms of the designs.

Thank you to Museé des Arts Decoratifs for this beautiful exhibition.

https://madparis.fr/thierry-mugler-couturissime-en

Words and Images by Rosie Watkins

Corporate Branding Embroidery

March 28, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Do you have an offsite to prepare for or just want to treat you team ? Hawthorne & Heaney are a mayfair based embroiderer specialising in quality embroidery and fast lead times. We dedicate the same attention to customer service as we do to embroidery detail and our expert team are on hand to consult and find solutions for your branded goods.

We are happy to work on pre bought items and also help source where needed. Being based in Mayfair makes us very flexible on urgent orders and because of our location we can offer a central London consultation service and an opportunity to check samples before actioning large orders.

Our team has many years experience working with companies and their corporate identity, we often personalize items with initials on a range of pieces, from shoes and bags, to sweatshirts, polo shirts and gilets – perfect for showing your appreciation to hard working staff members and valued customers.

Previous well known clients include Boots, Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, Ella’s Kitchen and many local finance and law firms.

To enquire about your corporate brand embroidery, get in touch here.

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