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digitial embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain

June 12, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryWork In Progress back in April 2020 (design by Jessica Strain, Image from H&H)

Some good news to share with you! During the lockdown period we were presented with the opportunity to spread some positivity and sponsor one of our freelance embroiderers with their graduate collection. Like many people when Covid lockdown began, Jessica Strain was stopped in her tracks from following through with her many months of planning when it came to producing her BA textiles Textiles graduate collection.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryWork In Progress back in April 2020 (design by Jessica Strain, Image from H&H)

As a former intern of ours, she approached us to see if we could help with access to the machinery she could no longer use in the workrooms at uni. And so our sponsorship of Jessica’s collection began, making the small missing step in her production chain by realising her designs onto the final pieces. It was also wonderful for us to see her utilise some of the hand embroidery skills she learned during her time with us and weave them into her collection; such as tambour beading and limerick lace.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryHand Embroidered Limerick Lace by Jessica Strain

That collection, ‘Nature Reclaiming Spaces’ is now out as she has finished her course and the results are just beautiful. Have a read of the press release below for a flavour of the themes she explores through her textile collection. However, the images, as I’m sure you will agree, speak for themselves.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryWork In Progress, Machine Embroidery (design by Jessica Strain, Image from H&H)

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryWork In Progress, Machine and Hand Embroidery (by Jessica Strain)

 

Jessica Strain has created an embroidery collection exploring how mother nature infiltrates all things man-made, whether that’s rust on a metal post or weeds growing through cracks of buildings, beauty can be found in the ordinary.

Combining traditional embroidery techniques with contemporary machine-led processes is at the heart of Jessica’s practice. Jessica began her collection by taking a roll of manually double-exposed film photographs on a 35mm camera. To develop her love of hand-led processes, it was only natural for Jessica to employ embroidery techniques such as tambour beading, limerick lace and shuttle tatting (a form of lacemaking) within the collection.

Sustainability is integral to Jessica’s design process; embroidery techniques lend themselves well to sustainable textiles as they are hard wearing and designed to last. Natural dyeing made up the majority of colour within Jessica’s collection; dyeing organic fabrics with onion skins, nettles and an indigo vat from home during the COVID lockdown. Jessica hand-dyed her digitally embroidered kimono in an indigo vat, each piece requiring 15 X 2-minute dips with additional rinsing between dips. Constituting of 13 pattern pieces, it’s evident how devoted Jessica is to her practice.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryMachine Embroidered Kimono By Jessica Strain

Once the textiles side of her collection was complete, she brought the project around to its fruition, moulding them into these stunning garments.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryHand Embroidered Limerick Lace Skirt By Jessica Strain

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand EmbroideryTambour Beading By Jessica Strain

 

Finishing off by taking those garments back into their natural habitat with this look book photoshoot, we are delighted that Jessica’s collection has come together so well and know that this is only the first step in wonderful things to come for this textiles designer.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Jessica Strain London Hand Embroidery

Thanks for sharing these images with us, all image credits unless otherwise stated are courtesy of Jessica Strain. To see more of her work find Jessica on instagram or her website .

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: BA, digitial embroidery, embellishment, embroidery, graduate collection, hand embroidery, limerick lace, machine embroidery, mulitmedia, sponsor, sponsorship, tambour beading, textiles

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging

October 18, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Frogging is an interesting word for an embroidery technique isn’t it. It is believed that it referes to the shape of the knot used in ‘frog fasteners’ with the center being the body and the sides being the wide back legs of the frog. The term over the years has come to refer to the embroidery done with this same type of appliqued chord onto garments though not resctricted to the original 3 part knot or for fastening purposes.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand Embroidery

At Hawthorne & Heaney, we can produce traditional, hand embroidered frogging, where braid is manipulated and sewn down to create these elaborate patterns that you may recognise from historical garments and costume.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPeacoat with hand embroidered frogging detail by Gieves and Hawkes for Permanent style

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryElaborate hand embroidered frogging sleeves before garment construction

We also can produce similar effects using digital embroidery:

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryClose up machine embroidery frogging on sleeves

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryVelvet smoking jacket with machine embroidery frogging sleeves for Arjan Blok

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet sleeves before construction for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet fronts before construction for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet  for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryAnderson and Sheppard smoking jacket for the Beaumont Collection (LCW) . As photographed by Guy Hills

It is particulally fun when people want to push the traditional boundries with their order like these frogging inspired sleeves before construction:

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryDogtooth sleeves with machine embroidered details for Kathryn Sargent

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, Tailoring Tagged With: anderson and shepherd, bespoke, chord, cord, digitial embroidery, embroidery, frogging, guy hills, hand embroidery, jackets, kathry sargent, knot, machine embroidery, permanent style, savile row, stitching, Tailoring

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