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hand embroidery

Ceremonial Embroidery

April 7, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Embroidery is a popular addition for university, legal and military ceremonial dress for robes and uniforms.  For small scale commissions from private enthusiasts to full sets of robes for well know heritage companies Hawthorne & Heaney have the privilege of working on ceremonial embroidery for projects all over the world.

Ceremonial Embroidery London Hand Embroidery
Gold cut work cuff embroidery

We pride ourselves on our ability to produce traditional cut work and purl embroidery at home and overseas with reliable lead times and faultless quality.  Our experts have over 40 years experience in the ceremonial gold work industry making our product and service unparalleled.  

Ceremonial Embroidery London Hand Embroidery
Embroidered robe ornament embroidery

In contrast to this we also run a digital embroidery workshop and are able to offer incredible results, with extremely short lead times.  With lots of experimentation we have developed our own unique way to create the traditional hand embroidery and gold work effects using the digital process. These techniques and skills are what gives our small team the ability to produce stunning, large scale pieces within a very tight turn around.

Ceremonial Embroidery London Hand Embroidery
Large Scale embroidery on Chasuble robe for a wedding embroidered by Hawthorne & Heaney.  Made by Antonia Ede and Keith Levett.

 

If you wish to get in touch with us about embroidery for ceremonial dress, head to our contact page for our contact details and we will be delighted to help with your enquiry.

Filed Under: ceremonial, Embroidery, Embroidery, London Embroidery Tagged With: bespoke, bespoke embroidery, ceremonial, custom, embroidery, Embroidery London, Fashion Embroidery, goldwork, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, Hawthorne and Heaney, history, judicial, machine embroidery

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes

February 25, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

You may have heard of our sister company, London Embroidery School. Located in Central London, London Embroidery School is dedicated to delivering high standard embroidery classes for all abilities.

‘Embroidery is a lifelong skill and even if you are just starting out, it is something that will stay with you, to be passed down through generations. Perfect for slowing down a busy mind, we teach hundreds of techniques on demand.  Our online classes can be stopped, restarted, replayed and paused all so you can fit them into even the craziest schedule.’ -London Embroidery School

Offering a wide range of classes online which all start with the basics, you can learn the embroidery techniques we use daily, with no previous experience in the comfort of your own home, in your own time.

Hand Monogramming Classes

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

At Hawthorne & Heaney, we work on a lot of hand monograms for luxury items like shirts and silk pyjamas. You can learn this skill yourself with the London Embroidery School online classes. Starting with part one, which kicks off with the most basic form of hand monogramming, and moving into more difficult techniques with part two and three.

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

Goldwork Classes

We are very well known for our gold work skills at Hawthorne & Heaney, and through our sister company London Embroidery School, you can learn this technique from one of our expert team members through online classes. Starting you off with an introduction to gold work to get you started, there are 5 classes to choose from varying in skill level depending on how confident you’re feeling.

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

Learn To Embroider Like Us With Our London Embroidery School Classes London Hand Embroidery

Don’t forget to share your creations on social media and tag us on @londonembschool so we can see your progress!

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Embroidery, London, London Embroidery, Monograms Tagged With: embellishment, embroidery lessons, Embroidery London, goldwork, hand embroidery, learning, London Embroidery, London Embroidery School, Monogram, monogramming, personalisation, stitching

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts

February 25, 2022 by Connie Mabbott

Mother’s day is approaching fast, and we have the perfect solution for that special gift, guaranteed to make Sunday the 27th of March extra special this year!

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

Traditionally, Mothering Sunday was a day for children who had gone away for work to return home to visit their Mothers. Now, we mark this day to honour our Mothers, make time for them, take them out for lunch and treat them with flowers, chocolates and personal gifts to show our appreciation.

At Hawthorne & Heaney we work on many different personalised gifts, from tea towels and hankies, to silky pyjamas, dressing gowns and scarves. We offer a luxury personalisation service, which is a fantastic way to elevate your gifts and make them extra special! Our expert team of embroiderers will help guide you through your order to make sure we meet your expectations.

 

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

 

Hand Monogramming

Our in house luxury hand monogramming service looks stunning on items like silk pyjamas and shirts. We work to high standards so you are guaranteed a quality finish an all items.

Simple and subtle hand finishes are the perfect way to personalise pieces that just need small finishing touches.

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

 

Machine Embroidered Text

Our digital embroidery services offer much more variety of size and fonts to choose from. These look stunning on bath robes, pyjamas, wash bags and scarves, and can be embroidered monograms, names or even full sentences! Choose your mothers favourite quote, or song lyric for that wow factor that is something guaranteed to surprise them and be kept forever.

Why not personalise something personal, for example this matching tea towel and oven glove for a passionate baker or loving cook.

Make Mother’s Day Memorable With Personalised Embroidered Gifts London Hand Embroidery

To see more of our monogram work, visit our services page.

Whatever your vision for Mothering Sunday, we would love to work with you to create something special. Get in touch via our contact from to get started with your enquiry.

Filed Under: ceremonial, London Embroidery, Monograms Tagged With: bespoke embroidery, gifts, hand embroidered, hand embroidery, Initials, Monogram, Mothering Sunday, mothers day, personalisation, Personalised, personalised gift

Hawthorne & Heaney for London Craft Week 2021

October 5, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

London Craft Week is alive and kicking this week in London after a skipped year becuase of Covid and delayed from it’s usualy May slot. However, if you are in London between now and the 10th October, there are lots of events, open doors and workshop on to get involved with. We are very excited to have our own little addition to the events, with live embroidery stitching taking place by a member of the Hawthorne & Heaney team each week day. They will be working on a range of hand embroidered pieces such as Broderie Anglaise, with one of our goldwork samples also on display.

Hawthorne & Heaney for London Craft Week 2021 London Hand Embroidery

We can be found upstairs from our home, at 32 Savile Row. Fast becoming the place to take a minute to yourself or grab a spot of lunch on Savile Row, The Service. The coffee is fantastic and the surroundings make you feel like you’re in your own movie when you are so surrounded by style. As they have ever changing tailoring and art inspired displays, it’s really fun to be working in amongst it all so we look forward to perhaps seeing a few of you over the next few days.

Follow the link for a look around on our Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/CUmmBAyFA43/

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, Tailoring Tagged With: embroidery, events, fashion, hand embroidery, live stitching, London, London Craft Week, London Embroidery, personalisation, stitching, Tailoring

In Discussion with Lisa Grainger for Walpole

August 12, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

It’s always a surprise and a delight when a writer for the Times Magazine calls, so you can imagine our feelings when Lisa Grainger got in touch for a chat in preparation for her latest column for Walpole: The Value of Craftsmanship. The piece came out on their website today so follow the link to read all about it.

In Discussion with Lisa Grainger for Walpole London Hand Embroidery

We feel very passionatly about the importance of craftsmanship and maintaing these precious skills so it is with much gratitude that we thanks to Walpole and Lisa for the opportunity to be featured.

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion, London, Tailoring Tagged With: article, column, craftsmanship, embroidery, goldwork, hand embroidery, lisa grainger, opus anglicanum, press, walpole

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

August 6, 2021 by Intern

This online exhibition has allowed us to have an insight into the past of Korea’s embroidery. Allowing us to understand the transformation it has made throughout time, and see the stunning collection provided by Sookmyung Women’s University Museum to give us visual aid to appreciate the beautiful, intricate work. The exhibition takes us on a journey of traditional embroidery, incorporating traditional symbols, colours, designs and elegant details. Allows us to understand the divide in the Joseon period, of the rich and less fortunate just through the difference in embroidery. Resulting in an end point of modern and contemporary embroidery, and how Western culture has impacted this development.

Due to the Covid 19 pandemic, online exhibitions have become very popular, and this is allowing other cultures to be shared at such speed and ease. Allowing us to understand other people’s cultures and be enlightened by their traditions and norms. Online exhibitions are an amazing way to share information easily, however there could be a dispute about the experience of an in-person exhibition and the pictures shown within an online exhibition. You cannot physically see the intricate work, however at exhibitions it is rare you can get a real close look due to space restrictions, to preserve the work as much as possible. Therefore as long as the pictures of the work are high resolution it is a brilliant way to showcase the exhibition. Also, embroidery is so intricate and detailed it is a beneficial way to view the work.

Traditional Embroidery: Hyungbae-

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Starting off with the traditional embroidery theexhibition shows us Hyunbae which is also known as an Insignia, this is when a larger piece of embroidery is situated on the chest or back panels of clothing. This allows other people to be aware of the person’s hierarchy. For example, Civil officers usually have a bird on their design and a military officer is designated a four-legged animal. Like the two pictures shown here. This became an established way to categorise individuals after the reign of King Yeongjo. This has now developed to form a part of Korea’s national identity. All these were created in the Joseon period, which was five centuries long.

This is a beautiful example of the crane, as it shows the couched golden thread and amazing detail that has gone into these exquisite pieces. With small details of red seed stitch.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand EmbroideryHusu-

 

Traditional Korean embroidery was usually worn at high class events, such as this piece below. The Husu official robe is a piece of material that is worn from the waist down, and incorporates many different designs, within the Korean culture they have different symbols to represent different things. It was a way of expressing themselves in such a controlling period of authority. The more saturated the colours, a better representation of money.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Some designs like the golden crane became a very popular design throughout history later on, however, to begin with it was just for the highest-ranking individuals. It was one of the most popular designs to filter through to the Western Culture influence. This is a beautiful example of the crane embroidered onto a Husu, using the direction of stitch to show the detail in the feathers and a stunning combination of stitch techniques.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand EmbroideryCourt embroidery (Gungsu)-

 

Within the royal court, there is the extended royal household, and embroidery was used as a pass time. Subang was their embroidery department and specialised in the production of their high-class embroidery. In the mid to late Joseon period, dragons were heavily used as authoritarian symbols. This is an example of one of the pieces made, a woman’s court robe.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Gifts of embroidery were extremely popular in the royal court, the wedding of Queen Sunwon, an embroidered chest was gifted to her, incorporating ten traditional signals, which are also known as symbols of longevity. These symbols incorporated lotus flowers and mandarin duck designs, wishing the new married couple happiness and to bear many children.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Practical Embroidery-

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

This type of embroidery was created by the general public, calling this embroidery Minsu. Making it easy to differentiate between Gungsu and the royal court embroidery. The women use to create designs for their husband and children, incorporating symbols which would hopefully make their dreams and desires come true. A lot of the designs incorporated the ten symbols of longevity. These designs were put on many different objects, like the pillow cases above, using silk shading to create the wonderful ombre effect in the delicate flowers. During the time of the mid-Joseon the rules were extremely restricting therefore embroidery was a type of escape, and the only free way to express themselves through design and colour.

Baby’s Embroidered Hat-

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

There are alot of hidden symbols in traditional Korean embroidery. This design I thought was wonderful, vibrant, full of life and intricate. As well as a good example of practical embroidery.

The meaning behind this design was that a lotus flower can grow in mud and dirt but always remain clean, therefore as a child grows do not let the outside world affect or influence you in a negative way.

Here are some more examples below, buttons, chopstick holders and glasses cases.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Embroidered Folded Screens-

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

These folding screens were multipurpose. They were used to block wind, conceal spaces and used for decorative reasons. The embroidery on them made them look more luxurious, using the ten traditional symbols of longevity, birds and flowers, symbols of life and fortune. These were normally used by the upper-class families, or gifted to the upper-class families or the royal court. The traditional gold thread on black woven silk symbolises noble dignity. Like the example above.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

One example was created by a group of males, from Anju, they embroidered a folding screen, which was in celebration of the King at the time. Which is the picture above. The picture below are some close up images of the folding screen, of parts I thought were particularly beautiful. As time progressed in 1945 upper class women across the globe had these decorative folding screens for changing and concealing themselves.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

Modern and Contemporary Embroidery-

The period of enlightenment really impacted many areas of the world including the western influence, changing traditional embroidery. Education was at a turning point, girls’ schools were becoming more common, and embroidery was a skill that was being taught throughout many institutions. A particular girl’s school was established in 1938, Sookmyung Women’s School as well as the Department of Handicrafts to provide an embroidery education. This enabled skills that had been passed through families, and new skills learnt in the schools to merge and create new and exciting outcomes.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

This piece of work embroidery with Landscapes created by Yu Han-gyeong in the 1940s. It shows how the Western culture influenced traditional embroidery, because there is an element of dye in this piece. Which would never have been traditionally used. Then added detail with the embroidered trees and house.

This was designed by activist Nam Gung-eok.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

It takes the shape of the Korean peninsula through the branches and the roses. The thirteen roses represent the thirteen
provinces of Joseon. On this map embroidered on hemp cloth, there is a text that reads, “In commemoration of the liberation of Joseon.”

I also feel like the picture below is a good way to end this blog as it is a modern day version of the symbols of longevity! Korea has been on an amazing journey with its embroidery, and I hope you can appreciate it through this blog.

Thank you to Sookmyung Women’s University Museum for providing the gorgeous embroidery.

The Past and Present of Korean Embroidery- Sookmyung Women’s University Museum London Hand Embroidery

 

Words By Victoria Jones

Filed Under: ceremonial, Embroidery, Embroidery Tagged With: embroidery, hand embroidery, korea, korean embroidery, online exhibitions

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21

May 27, 2021 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand Embroidery

A few years ago, we had the opportunity to work the the bespoke devision of H&M on an unusual project which would push our embroidery materials further than we had gone beofre. With them we developed these starburst from a combination of goldwork bullion, swarovski crystals, sequins, beads and most excitingly: reflective threads.

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand EmbroideryWhen the flash is on, you can really see these catch the light- perfect for an onstage performance.

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand EmbroideryEach one is built up out of the surface of the fabric for even more impact.

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand EmbroideryUp close, you get more of a sense of the detail that went into these piece with the pearle purl edging, raised cutwork purls, bugle beads and sequins coming into view. Playing with the textures to add interest however the light fall on them.

Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand Embroidery

Now we have got to see the project brought to its conclusion when they were feautured as part of the outfit for Sweden’s entry to Eurovision Rotterdam 2021: Tusse. Worn as detatched black sleeves to his red velvet suit, the crystal and reflective thread made quite an impression during the performance. Hawthorne & Heaney for H&M Bespoke- Tusse Eurovision 21 London Hand Embroideryimage courtesy of @tusseofc

Follow the link  to see the full video of Tusse and the sleeves  ‘in action’ during the Eurovision Final 2021.

Filed Under: Art, ceremonial, Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre Tagged With: beads, bespoke, bullion, costume, custom, embroidery, eurovision, H&M, hand embroidery, pearle purl, performance, reflective threads, rotterdam2021, sequins, singing competition, song competition, swarovski crystals, sweden, tusse

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition

October 30, 2020 by Intern

On the 16th of October I got the opportunity to visit the House of Bandits exhibition, which is based at Rembrandt House in London, just down the road from Savile Row. This exhibition is part of the Sarabande foundation created by the late Alexander McQueen to support the new and upcoming visionary talent of today. Offering both studio space and scholarships the foundation has helped many inspiring artists to date.

One of the artists in particular who I went to go see was Esna Su. She creates handcrafted pieces which explore ‘the subtle issues of identity and memory and how these are shaken in the context of political instability’. Within her work she uses the traditional Turkish techniques of weaving, twinning and crochet. As a fellow weaver myself I can understand the complexity and detail that goes into her woven pieces.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

Below you can see the process that Esna Su goes through to create some of her final creations. When it comes to knitting, Su uses strips of vegetable leather and knits them together. She lets the designs take shape in their own way as once the leather is dry the organic shapes are exposed. In her own words ‘’through irregular and hollow shapes, she exposes the burden of displacement but also sketches an aspiration towards protection and preservation’’.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

“It’s a big part of my life being at Sarabande and I’ll always remember my time with a big smile. I would never have been brave enough to do this without the support of Sarabande.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

Along with Esna Su’s work was another Turkish artist called Berke Yazicioglu who showcased his woven wall hanging which had a particular inspirational point of view. The following designs shown below are woven representations of Igor Stravinsky Rite of Spring. Listening to this piece he used the sound colour theory by different sounds, notes and instruments meaning different textile aspects. For example, the beat inspired the framework, the instruments represent a specific colour and the notes equal to a certain colour tone.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The House of Bandits Exhibition London Hand Embroidery

This exhibition is free. And for specific artists you can buy tickets. This is a great exhibition to help support fellow designs and is one to check out. 

 

Words and Images by Isabelle Humm

Filed Under: Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: exhibition, fashion, hand embroidery, internship, London, london exhibitions, mcqueen, sarabande, textiles, visit, weave

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