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vivienne westwood

Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition

January 21, 2021 by Intern

With the new National Lockdown measures put into place with the message to stay at home, it has given the perfect opportunity to search for art exhibitions online, exploring work displayed all over the world by various designers. I came across Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion online exhibition by the British Fashion Council.

Vivienne Westwood is one of the most recognised women in fashion, known for her positive activism approach to her collections, displaying issues and disasters happening in the world today. She started designing in 1971 with her partner at the time, Malcolm McLaren in their shop located on the Kings Road, London. It became one of the most desired shops of the time, defining the street culture of Punk and Seditionaries. With the change of fashion over time, Westwood decided to turn to traditional Savile Row tailoring techniques, introducing her own flair and style to garments. 

Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition London Hand Embroidery

 Vivienne Westwood climate change protest outside London Fashion Week

Westwood has spent years speaking out about climate change and the overconsumption of resources that are damaging the planet we live on. She supports charities such as Cool Earth and the  environmental Justice Foundation. Her 2016 Spring/ Summer Collection ‘Mirror the World’ campaigned climate change well, using the challenges faced in modern-day Venice and using it as a mirror to show the world what we are all causing.

Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition London Hand Embroidery

‘Mirror the World’ Spring/Summer 2016 Collection by Vivienne Westwood

The collection exploited the problems in Venice which include the lack of repair, mass tourism, cruise ships and overall climate change. With Venice being an ‘emporium of culture,’ Westwood used this with the reference to carnivals in a way that people dress and disguise themselves from their own identity and the life they may lead, linking back to the primitive era.  Similarly, we are hiding away and masking the negative problems that affect the world.

Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition London Hand Embroidery

‘Mirror the World’ Spring/Summer 2016 Collection by Vivienne Westwood

Watching the collection catwalk there were constant links made to nature and the environment in the choice of fabrics, clashing prints and slogans. There were some very interesting material choices used to create structure, shapes giving tailored looks which some may find risky to wear. Some of the pieces had added accessories which looked like they were sourced from emporiums and vintage stores. They were reformed to add bling and express the idea that old things can be reused to make something new. The hair and make-up complemented the looks well, both being conceptual and emphasising cracked or broken mirrors, expressing and exposing the ever-growing damage. 

Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne and Heaney explore the online Vivienne Westwood: Politics and Fashion exhibition London Hand Embroidery

‘Mirror the World’ Spring/Summer 2016 Collection by Vivienne Westwood

Looking through this exhibit, it has opened my eyes to the destruction we all contributing to climate change. It’s interesting to see how Vivienne Westwood portrays these issues and the way she feels so well through her garment structures, fabric choices and accessories. It is extremely important at this moment in time to consider how we can do our bit to slow down damage to our planet, whether that be recycling, choosing alternative travel options or upcycling old clothes. This exhibition was available on Google Arts and Culture, where there are a huge variety of displays which are free to view and definitely worth looking at. 

 

Words written by Jessica Westley

Photo’s sourced from Google Arts and Culture – British Fashion Council (Vivienne Westwood Exhibit)

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion Tagged With: activism, couture, fashion, politics, vivienne westwood

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican

November 16, 2016 by Hasina Akther

The word vulgar is used to describe common people, lack of sophistication or good taste and reflects someone making explicit or offensive reference to sex or the body.

The “The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined” exhibition curated by Judith Clark and Adam Phillips displays famous looks from the fashion world dating back from the renaissance to current day fashion. The exhibition definitely gets you questioning about why is vulgar such a sensitive area in fashion and what makes something vulgar?

By looking at the definition of vulgar as being common, it also explores the ideas of fashion being common, has it ever been unique? By trying to be different, your fashion exaggerating then turning into a vulgar taste.

The exhibition includes works from designers such as, John Galliano, Pam Hogg,Vivienne Westwood and Yves Saint Laurent. Some of the looks there, I can understand as being vulgar, over the top, makes you wonder why is that necessary and in a way almost a bit disturbing. What I found difficult about the collection, is what do you actually classify as vulgar?

Surely it’s all down to personal opinion rather, as some things I did find vulgar but other pieces there I found beautiful.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

These hair shoes by Alessandro Michele for Gucci were featured in the exhibition. For me, these shoes say vulgar. They are very eccentric, easy to show off with and over all a strange idea to get over.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

Hussein Chalayan’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, his dresses covered in acrylic nails. The idea of vulgar coming from the concept rather than the look of it.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

Pam Hogg SS14, her designs are very unique and different, but most of the time they are revealing and insensitive. Getting a strong reaction from society which I feel the idea of vulgar is all about.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

Walter van Beirendonck 2010-11 “Take a Ride” collection.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

Whilst with this Christian Dior SS 2003, I think it is very exaggerated but still has elegance and beauty to it, so does that make it vulgar?

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

Looks from the Viktor&Rolf collection, Van Gogh Girls, were also featured. But is the actual fashion vulgar? Or is it the whole design of the big straw hat and flowers growing off the dress. This to me creates more of an exciting, artistic presentation of the clothes, presented almost like paintings, what they were inspired by.

Whilst in the exhibition there were also pieces, which I found beautiful, elegant and sophisticated. Lace collars, stomachers and looks by Givenchy, Raf Simons, Chloe and Madame Grès, were some of the looks that I didn’t understand why they were there.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney Visits The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition at the Barbican London Hand Embroidery

The collection is full of interesting pieces of fashion and historic embroidered pieces such as stomachers, dresses and accessories. It’s a really interesting and exciting collection to see with lots of information and film about vulgarity in fashion and the different movements throughout history that affected it.

Images taken from:

http://fashiontribes.typepad.com/fashion/2015/04/bride-of-bigfoot-hairy-slipper-shoe-footwear-things-stomp-into-fall-2015.html

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/22125/2/the-vulgar-fashion-redefined

http://the-moustached-king.tumblr.com/page/4

http://showstudio.com/collection/hussein_chalayan_paris_womenswear_a_w_2014/anders_christian_madsen_reports_on_the_chalayan_show

http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/barbican-vulgarity-the-spice-of-fashion-life

http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/barbican-vulgarity-the-spice-of-fashion-life

http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/barbican-vulgarity-the-spice-of-fashion-life

 

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: Adam Phillips, Alessandro Michele, Barbican, beauty, Christian Dior, eccentric, elegance, exhibition, Fashion Embroidery, Gucci, Hawthorne & Heaney, Hussein Chalayan, John Galliano, Judith Clarke, lace, Pam Hogg, The Vulgar, vivienne westwood, Yves Saint Laurent

Hawthorne and Heaney at the Golden Shears 2015

March 21, 2015 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne and Heaney at the Golden Shears 2015 London Hand Embroidery

This time of year, one of the most prestigious awards for young aspiring tailors is awarded. As a steward of the Bespoke Tailors Benelovent Association, our director Claire Barrett attended this years event.  Hawthorne and Heaney at the Golden Shears 2015 London Hand Embroidery

The prize is awarded to the student who is considered to have produced the best tailored outfit with consideration given to fit, style and suitability. The students featured are all practising in the industry currently as the award has a particular emphasis on learning within the industry. The most respected and skilled tailors judge the competition, headed up by Chairman of the judges, Robert J Bright; with Jonathan Becker, Alan Bennett, Joe Morgan, Kathryn Sargent and Brigette Stepputtis as technical judges. These esteemed tailors represent the best the industry has to offer, working for companies such as Davis & Sons, Chittleborough & Morgan and Vivienne Westwood. Assisting the technical judges were the guest judges which, this year, comprised of Jodie Kidd, David Gandy, Betty Jackson CBE, Jennifer Saunders and Lord Grade of Yarmouth CBE.

Hawthorne and Heaney at the Golden Shears 2015 London Hand Embroidery

25 outfits were presented from which the three prizes were awarded.  Joe Holsgrove won the 2015 Golden Shears with Dionne Reeves taking the Silver Shears and Nuriya Kabirova winning the Rising Star award.  It is truly exciting to see the work of the future tailors, our congratulations to the winners, we can’t wait to see what next years competitors will produce.

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: Alan Bennett, awards, Brigette Stepputtis, BTBA, chittleborough and morgan, Claire Barrett, Davis and sons, golden shears 2015, Hawthorne and Heaney, Joe Morgan, Kathryn Sargent, merchant taylors hall, Robert J Bright; with Jonathan Becker, saville row bespoke, Tailoring, vivienne westwood

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